JUNE 2 & 3, 2012
DRILLING - It is easiest to drill holes for the joint bars at workbench level, in
this case on the golf cart. This is an 11/64 drill. This joint bar (marked with
centerline) is the template for the holes at both ends of the rail.
BOLTING - We are using half-inch 6-32 stainless steel panhead machine
screws and stainless steel nylon-insert lock nuts. During final assembly, the
bolts on one rail are tightened and the bolts on the other rail slightly loose to
allow for expansion.
BRIDGE APPROACH, WEST SIDE - Two 6x6's attached to a 2x6 and
notched to fit are used to support the approach track. They sit on a second
2x8 bolted to the original 2x8. Ties here are 18 inches long instead of 13.75.
BUILDING UP THE BASE - I used stones gathered from all kinds of
places, fitted them to the approximate contour of the land, and filled the gaps
with old bags of concrete mix. If it's not the best bond, it doesn't matter,
because it filled in well.
BOLTING AND SPIKING - The inner rail has been bolted on for the bridge
approach and second track panel. We have not bolted or spiked the outer rail
CURVE LAID OUT - The radius is 30 feet. The second section uses thinner
ties than usual, 2 inches instead of 2.5, to make up for high spots in the track
VIEW FROM OTHER SIDE - The curve fit nicely between the bridge and the
opening in the tree canopy. We will add ballast, then call it a day.
TANGENT BEGINS - Sunday morning I was out there at 7:30 installing more
track. I bolted and spiked 2 panels before taking a coffee break.
THREE MORE - By lunchtime there were three more panels bolted and
spiked down. But the next rock pile was still 30 feet away.
AND ANOTHER THREE - And so I could use the "mine car" to load up and
spread ballast, about 3 feet per load. Today we installed a total of 11 panels