BUILDING A 20 DEGREE CROSSING
MARCH 23-APRIL 11, 2013
[home]
TIES - We cut ties in the following lengths: 9 pieces 21 inches and 4 pieces
each of 23, 25, and 27 inches.  Next we will place them on the workbench at 4
inch spacing.
BASIC ARRANGEMENT - After arranging the ties, we set up rails in the
approximate position just to how they would fit on the ties.  Seems OK so far!
TRIMMING RAIL TO FIT - after a full section of straight rail was secured to
the ties, we trimmed off the end of a rail to fit snugly against the other rail at 20
degrees.
We are using a band saw for this type of cut.
SNUG FIT - after a few tries, we got a good tight fit.  This is located at the
center tie.  Obviously we will have to make a gap for the wheel flanges.
TEMPLATE - We made a template out of 1/4 inch plywood.  Using
calculations from www.csgnetwork.com/righttricalc.html, we found that at 12
inches from the point, the rails should measure 4.25 inches apart.
FLANGEWAY - Using a hacksaw we cut a gap 4.75 mm deep and 8 mm
wide at a 20 degree angle, and then fit the diverging rail against it.  We may
have to make adjustments when we test drive a train across it.
ON-SITE FITTING - We placed a pair of rails at the approximate location of
the new crossing.  Trains coming toward us from the upper left will go to a new
route.
ANGLE MEASURED ON SITE - After drawing the angle on paper, we
made a plywood template and made sure it fit right.
INNER RAILS - After all four outside rails are fit and the gaps cut, it's time to
add the inner rails of the diamond.
FLANGEWAYS - Just like on a turnout frog, the crossing should have
flangeways so that wheels don't drop at the gaps.  We used 2 pieces of 1/8
aluminum and one piece of 1/4 inch plexiglas.  Why plexiglas?  That's what we
have available!
FLANGEWAYS INSTALLED - Here's what it looks like when those 3 pieces are
installed.
ALMOST READY TO MOVE OFF THE
WORKBENCH
ON SITE AND READY TO INSTALL
JUST ANOTHER VIEW OF THE COMPLETED
CROSSING
INSTALLED IN ITS FINAL POSITION
[previous page]
[next page]